Waldviertelbahn: Nostalgic experience under steam

In the heart of the Waldviertel, a region often referred to as "Austrian Siberia," stretch iron rails that bear witness to a bygone era. The Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways, once the lifeblood of a remote, agricultural region, have a turbulent history, one of rise and fall, of economic necessity and passionate preservation.

Its history is a reflection of technological development and change in society, beginning with the construction of the railway in the late 19th century, through the changing operators from the Lower Austrian State Railways to the Austrian Federal Railways, up to today's renaissance as a rolling museum under the care of the State of Lower Austria.

Steam locomotives were once the only way to get trains moving and keep them moving. For many decades of the 20th century, this technology was the backbone of most railway companies, but their successors, diesel and electric, are now ubiquitous, and the comparatively rare steam traction has become a real eye-catcher.

The Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways have a long and eventful history. These are also the last routes on which the Austrian Federal Railways regularly operated steam-hauled trains in regular service. However, that is long since history, as the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has completely withdrawn from the operation and ownership of such branch lines in Lower Austria. The state of Lower Austria, through NÖVOG, has become the operator and infrastructure owner. Had the public sector not stepped in, the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways would likely have suffered the same fate as, for example, the Bregenzerwald Railway: complete closure and dismantling of tracks and other infrastructure.

ÖBB no longer wanted to, the state of Lower Austria stepped in

Under the umbrella of NÖVOG, which belongs to the state of Lower Austria, several railway lines that were once regular routes of the Austrian Federal Railways are now operated. Unfortunately – with a few exceptions – these are no longer regular lines integrated into transport associations, but rather as tourist railway lines. This is also the reason why, for example, on the Waldviertel narrow-gauge line from Gmünd to Groß Geras and Litschau, so-called nostalgic tours with steam locomotives are offered on selected days. Climate tickets, monthly passes from the Eastern Region Transport Association, and so on are not valid. A separate ticket is required, which can be purchased online, at the Waldviertelbahn ticket offices, or directly from the train conductor. Gmünd-Groß Gerungs-Gmünd costs 36 euros per adult by steam. There are discounts for certain groups of people, such as children and pensioners.

A family trip on the Waldviertel Railway's steam trains isn't exactly cheap, but in all fairness, maintaining and operating these historic steam locomotives is extremely costly. An hour of operation is about 4,5 times more expensive than that of a narrow-gauge diesel railcar. This is due – very simply put – to the fact that they require considerably more maintenance and care, preparation for journeys, personnel, and operating materials such as coal and water. While a diesel railcar usually only requires turning the ignition key, steam locomotives must be preheated for several hours before use. And after the journey? Simply parking them isn't an option.

The effort NÖVOG puts into ensuring that these nostalgic steam train rides can even take place is enormous. For example, the 125-year-old "Mh. 1" was transported by truck to Meiningen, Germany, where it underwent a comprehensive service. The major inspection is very time-consuming, as the nostalgic steam locomotive (built in 1906) is disassembled into its individual components to ensure all components are inspected for safety. Before the Mh. 1 was reassembled, the smoke and heating tubes, the firebox, and the bearings were replaced, and the chassis and tender were refurbished. This service was only carried out this year, and the Mh. 1 has only been back in service since June 1, 2025. In honor of its 125th anniversary, the steam locomotive has also been restored to its best visual condition.

Pure nostalgia experience

Passengers are offered a great deal, as journeys on steam-hauled trains are now a rarity. In addition, there are the historic carriages that once served these routes from Gmünd in regular service. These have been modernized only with great care, so their historic charm has been preserved. All this makes a ride on the Waldviertel Railway's steam trains a special experience. The so-called "Jausenwagen" (snack wagon) provides refreshments, where small snacks, drinks, and souvenirs can be purchased at reasonable prices.

During the journey from Gmünd to Groß Gerungs (and back), there are many opportunities to experience things at stops marked in the timetable. This includes taking photos of the train or visiting exhibitions (small railway museums). You can also watch the steam locomotive being refilled with water. This is necessary for operational reasons. When time allows, the train drivers and firemen, especially in Gmünd and Groß Gerungs, are happy to answer your questions in person. You can also watch them perform minor maintenance tasks, such as lubricating the drive rods.

On the train itself, an omnipresent conductor is always on hand to assist passengers, but also admonishes them if safety rules are not followed. Particular attention is paid to ensuring that the smoking ban, which also applies on the open platforms, is strictly observed. This is also related to the risk of forest fires.

Conclusion: Clear recommendation for a special experience

A ride on the steam trains of the NÖVOG Waldviertelbahn is definitely a special experience. The train is also a real eye-catcher for passersby, as almost everyone stops and watches the train in fascination. People wave, greet each other happily, and everyone is obviously proud that this steam train still exists. This is definitely not a given, because had the state of Lower Austria not stepped in, the ÖBB would most likely have closed down and dismantled the narrow-gauge railways for good. This risk was very real, and one example of how historical railway heritage should not be treated can be found on the defunct Bregenzerwaldbahn. This is just one of many, many examples – in Austria alone.

In addition to the steam train, which runs on the first and third Saturdays of the month during the summer from Gmünd to Groß Gerungs (and back) and on the first and third Sundays of the month from Gmünd to Litschau (and back), NÖVOG also offers more affordable alternatives. These include the historic diesel-hauled train and diesel railcars. Needless to say, these can't hold a candle to the steam train, but they carry the brunt of tourist traffic. Anyone who doesn't want to miss the few steam excursions should reserve as soon as possible, as demand is extremely high, and quite a few people travel from great distances to experience a single steam ride on the Waldviertel Railway.

All in all, the NÖVOG offers a fantastic experience that will captivate all generations. It features original historic locomotives and carriages, and of course, the old steam locomotives are coal-fired. The only criticism is that the selection and quality of the snack cart could be improved. The NÖVOG's ability to do this is even demonstrated in the Heurigen car of the Reblaus Express, which runs from Retz. But isn't a homemade snack also part of a trip on a steam-hauled train? In the past, there were no dining cars on branch lines anyway, and for cost reasons alone, people brought their own snacks...

If you have never heard of the Waldviertel Railway, you can find out more about its history below, and in particular about a selected historic steam locomotive, which is still in active service despite being 125 years old and was only completely overhauled in 2025 so that it can start the next 125 years.

The Beginnings: A Railway Company for the Waldviertel

The history of the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways begins in 1898 with the granting of the concession for the construction and operation of the Gmünd–Litschau line and the branch to Heidenreichstein. The Lower Austrian Waldviertel Railway (N.Ö. Waldviertelbahn AG), a private company dedicated to developing the region, was the lead company for this project. In the same year, the concession for the line from Gmünd to Groß Gerungs was also granted. These lines were built with a track gauge of 760 millimeters, the so-called Bosnian gauge, as this allowed for a more cost-effective route in the topographically challenging landscape.

The opening of the individual sections of the line between 1898 and 1903 marked a turning point for the Waldviertel region. The railway lines became a crucial factor for the local economy, significantly facilitating the transport of timber, granite, agricultural produce, and the products of the emerging textile and glass industries. The Lower Austrian Waldviertel Railway Company operated the lines in the early years with its own locomotives and wagons and contributed significantly to the prosperity of the villages and towns along the lines.

Nationalization and change under the Lower Austrian State Railways

In 1907, the lines of the Lower Austrian Waldviertel Railway AG, including the rolling stock, were taken over by the Lower Austrian State Railways (NÖLB). This move was part of a broader nationalization policy aimed at centralizing control over the regional railway networks and promoting the economy throughout the province. Under the aegis of the NÖLB, the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways experienced a period of stability and growth. The lines were further expanded, and the railways played a crucial role in passenger and freight transport in the region.

This situation, however, did not last forever. After the First World War and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Lower Austrian State Railways were dissolved in 1921, and their lines, including the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways, were taken over by the newly founded Austrian Federal Railways (BBÖ), later renamed the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB).

The long decline under the Austrian Federal Railways

Regular operations initially continued under the administration of the ÖBB (Austrian Federal Railways), but the signs of change were already evident. From the 1960s onward, increasing motorization and the expansion of the road network increasingly challenged the narrow-gauge railways. The slower rail connections could no longer keep up with the comfort and speed of private transport. This led to a steady decline in passenger numbers and freight volumes, calling into question the profitability of the lines.

The reasons for the cessation of operations were complex. Firstly, the narrow-gauge railway infrastructure, some of which dated back to the early days of the railway, was in dire need of renovation. Substantial investments in the tracks, bridges, and stations would have been necessary to maintain modern operations. Secondly, the operating costs of the narrow-gauge railways were too high compared to the declining volume of traffic. The Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB), increasingly under economic pressure, were forced to close unprofitable lines. Despite resistance from the local population and railway enthusiasts, more and more sections fell victim to the cost-cutting measures. Regular operations were gradually reduced and finally ceased completely in 2001. The era of the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways seemed to be over.

A new task: rebirth as a tourist heritage

The impending demise of the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways prompted the state of Lower Austria to take action. Aware of the inestimable cultural and tourist value of the railways, which represented a living monument to the region's industrial history, it was decided to save the lines. In 2001, the Lower Austrian Transport Organization Company (NÖVOG) assumed responsibility for the historic railways. The Gmünd–Litschau and Gmünd–Groß Gerungs lines were revitalized and reopened as tourist museum lines.

The takeover by the state of Lower Austria was a milestone in the history of the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways. From an unprofitable means of transport, the railways were transformed into a vibrant cultural and tourism project. The trains, often pulled by historic steam and diesel locomotives, now offer passengers an authentic journey through time through the picturesque landscape of the Waldviertel. They are no longer primarily used to transport goods and commuters, but rather serve as a place for recreation and adventure. They contribute to regional added value by attracting tourists and revitalizing local restaurants and hotels.

The Queen of the Narrow Gauge: The Story of the Steam Locomotive Mh1

At the heart of the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railway beats the historic heart of the Mh1 steam locomotive. The Mh1, a so-called superheated steam locomotive, was built in 1906 by the Krauss locomotive factory in Linz and was originally designed for the demanding mountain route of the Mariazell Railway. It belongs to the Mh series, which was known for its strength and reliability. With its power of over 400 hp, it could even haul heavy trains over steep sections of track.

After the Mariazell Railway was electrified, the Mh1 found its way to other narrow-gauge lines, including the Waldviertel region. There, it remained in regular service for decades before being decommissioned and scrapped in the 1970s. But thanks to the tireless efforts of railway enthusiasts, particularly the "Nostalgia Railways in Carinthia" association, the Mh1 was saved and restored in the 1980s. It became a sought-after guest on heritage railways throughout Austria. Since 2011, it has been back in the Waldviertel region, where, following extensive boiler renovations, it hauls historic trains along the tracks. The majestic steam locomotive has become an unmistakable trademark of the Waldviertel Railway and embodies the passion and dedication required to preserve this cultural asset for posterity.

Today, the Waldviertel narrow-gauge railways are a living testament to the past, bridging the gap between history and the present. A journey on these narrow tracks is more than just a train ride; it's a journey into the history of a region that only found its way into the modern age thanks to the railway.